PUNE: Smaller city, easier to breathe!

Been here in the city for 4 days now...so much more palatable than Mumbai in many ways. For one, the air is cleaner... it is actually possible to see blue skies! The temperature is pleasant; cooler, in the high 70's during the day, and even a bit chilly at night. Traffic, while still dense, at least has lulls in it...as such, navigating the street crossings are not nearly so harrowing.

There is a notable absence of HUMAN sidewalk sleepers/homeless folk. Don't know if because this is more of a larger city's trait, or I am simply located in a nicer part of the city thank I was in Mumbai. No idea, but it is a relief, to be sure. I have come across a small number of beggars, to be sure.

Then, the Ananda Center here is wonderful! (The one in Mumbai was as well, but was smaller and is newer.) At one of its two locations, meals are served on a daily basis and I feasted on a scrumptious lunch for 150 rupees, or about $2.17. The three main dishes--fairly standard--consisted of a bean curry, spicy mixed vegetables and white basmati rice. There was also salad (I carefully avoided this, as I do all fresh produce unless disinfected by me at home), curd (basically yogurt, which I don't eat as a vegan)  and the requisite, freshly made chapatis to mop up the sauces with. On my first evening here (this past Friday), my host was so kind as to order a "tiffin" of dinner dishes for me, consisting of the above-mentioned, delectable fare.

A tiffin consists of a set of stacked, stainless steel containers that are locked together. Such a simple but brilliant method of storage, and one of my favorite aspects of the Indian kitchen's equipment. In this case, the dishes contained a bean curry, mixed vegetable, rice and curd.  

There are still a great number of street dogs, but they appear to be slightly healthier than the Mumbai variety; at least, not so bloated or starved, as far as I can tell, and some even seem to have enough energy to roam about jauntily when not sleeping on the sidewalks. The following photo is one I took--albeit in horrified fascination--while watching to see whether or not this particular mongrel would succeed in crossing a very fast-moving arterial, akin to an expressway. It cleverly latched on to a woman attempting to do the same thing. I almost didn't want to look...but couldn't help it. Fortunately, this bit of drama had a happy ending: both dog and woman crossed without being mowed down! (I did wonder what could possibly be so attractive on the other side as to be worth risking its life!)

Thankfully they did NOT try to cross in front of the bus. The dog DID make several attempts before it actually succeeded in trotting across. 

Now, where was I going when I observed this scene? I was on my way to the Pride Hotel, where, I was told by Prisha, my hostess here where I am staying (in an apartment, with 3 others), that I could swim in the hotel's pool for 350 rupees. This is a rather pricey amount for a swim, amounting to about $5.00. Still, those of you who know me well know that I am a passionate lap swimmer. Being that my last swim was a week ago at the Holiday Inn (by the Mumbai Airport, a luxurious landing for me when I first arrived), I was craving another go-round. 

When I arrived at the Pride, I walked in like I belonged--a standard modus operandi for a sneaky expat such as myself.  (Though not the caliber of the Holiday Inn, it was nonetheless a pricey, 3 star hotel, patronized only by westerners and well-to-do Indians) I made directly for the pool, nodding nonchalantly at the staff who greeted me. No one questioned what I was doing there, no one charged me for the right to swim. So I changed and dove in....to seriously frigid water. Refreshing, yes...like lake or river swimming in the springtime! After doing my requisite 100 laps, I had no more circulation in my feet or hands, and my teeth were chattering. Apparently, the concept of a heated pool is foreign to Indians! Was it worth it? Oh, yes...and I got warmed up--and circulation happily returned--during the 35 minute walk back home. 

Cold but happy, doin' my selfie after the 45 min. swim!

No blood in the poor fingers...ditto, for the toes! The temperature was probably in the 60's. A normal lap swim pool would be heated to about 80 degrees. This sounds warm until you consider that a normal body temperature is 98.6, so even 80 degrees feels cool-ish. Now, imagine 15 or so degrees less....brrrrr! An icy stream or lake would be a close equivalent to the temperature in this pool!

Sidewalk-lying dogs enjoying the company of motorcycles, frequently parked on the sidewalks...go figure! Had to navigate my way through this strange obstacle course on my way home from the Pride Hotel and my swim. 

Lone dog: prone in the middle of the sidewalk--such a sad but common sight.

Wall art to enjoy along the way

A particularly colorful mural in classical style

Ganesha in a small temple...a welcome sight, indeed! He is my all time favorite Hindu deity

 No clue who this dude is at all! But thought it an interesting tribute to him

Alas, the modern Indian's love of fast food has caused the proliferation of this sort of shop

Back to my apartment, a lovely, spacious abode shared with Prisha, Shivani and Damodar. Prisha is an expat from WA. D.C. who has been living in India now for 15 years; Shivani and Damodar are natives. All three are most kind and welcoming...oh, and let us not forget Charlie, the cat, spoiled rotten and doted upon by all. He is the prince that truly rules this domicile!

Other, significant scenes at my week-long place of residency include the following: 

Classic Indian hole-in-the-floor toilet. The west is finally catching on to the healthfulness of the squatting position! Shame that many households here now have standard, western toilets. I much prefer the squatter myself! And since I am having a bit of intestinal trouble--the classic "Delhi Belly", as it were--I have a close acquaintanceship with this most important room!

My lovely bedroom. Only drawback: small, primitive house two stories below and just outside this apartment complex spews smoke from cooking fires 2-3 times per day. Have to make sure my window is tightly closed as to not be asphyxiated by the billowing smoke!

The other rooms of the apartment follow. This residence is fairly typical--as I have discerned thus far--of a middle-class home. Even so, middle-class folks, if not already a family, frequently share. This place is not inexpensive by Indian standards; however,  it can be quite a good deal for the modest, retired expat like myself. Wish I could stay longer than a week! This really is a great situation overall... 

Dining area, where I am sitting at this moment working on this blog!

The rather colorful kitchen. The bottom cupboard is coming off of its hinges, but this does not seem to phase my housemates, as I suppose this sort of condition is not atypical. 

Living room, beyond which is a balcony and favorite domain of Charlie. Prisha works diligently away on her own computer, there on the couch.

Couldn't resist another one of Charlie; he is demanding that Shivani feeds him, as usual. Quite a photogenic cat: notice how well his green eyes match the green rug! I know he posed this way on purpose.

And this, my friends, is a wrap for now...