MUMBAI: THE ADVENTURE BEGINS! FEB 2nd through 6th

Wow. I am actually here. The fuzz-brained feeling of jet lag has finally worn off and my senses are reeling from overload. I think of this city as the Indian version of New York; the incessant noise, throngs of people, traffic beyond belief. I can never get over the casualness with which pedestrians invite a seemingly certain death by strolling through endless gridlock, within inches of bumpers, heedless of honking horns or barreling buses. It is quite the show.

People have wondered at my traveling alone. "Aren't you scared?" they have queried. The western concept of the subcontinent is one of roving bandits and thieves, and that lone, white women are easy prey. After several days here, I glean that not only is this a ridiculous notion, fear of other people is the furthest concern from my mind. No, my friends, in fact my terror is of crossing streets, of the multitudes of drivers that neglect to even remotely slow down for pedestrians in their path, and motorcycles that are upon me in a flash of gleaming chrome before I remotely have a chance of seeing them. Of continually forgetting to look right first, and NOT left, because of course they are all driving on the "wrong" side of the road! And then, though my heart bleeds for all the bloated mongrels prowling the sidewalks, I am leery of the horrible diseases they must be carrying.  Also, I must steer clear of the steers! Those horns are mighty impressive, after all (though I must say, most seem pretty docile, and they are generally tethered to a pole.) And finally, I fear I might go deaf from the cacophony of jackhammers, blaring horns, stone grinders and god-only-knows-what, as every noise-making machine known to man is working around the clock in this mega-decibel metropolis.

But despite all this, I am LOVING it here! Loving the helpfulness of strangers and the ease of becoming their friend; the boundless hospitality of my Airbnb hosts and their quirky habits; the mutant, Dali-like breed of goats; the incredibly exotic aromas drifting over the streets; the endless varieties of wonderful food to discover; the clusters of men that crowd together on sidewalk corners, appearing not to work or have any other obligations or cares in the world. It is such a strange land in so many ways, and yet I feel quite welcomed here, quite at home. Each day I find that new and marvelous experiences await!

FAVORITE PHOTOS OF MUMBAI BY NIGHT:

Decorative roof of our cab as we (Monica, a new friend, and I) explore South Mumbai

Skyline along the oceanfront

Flora Fountain, at the Hutatma Chowk (Martyr's Square)

The Saifee Hospital, and research center..surely the most  beautiful hospital in the world!

Yes, unfortunately Starbuck's has infiltrated India...also McDonald's, KFC, Subway... can't keep Americana out, apparently! Idolized and idealized by Indians, sadly...

Ingredients for "Paan", a sweet concoction wrapped up in Betel Leaf

The vendors are amused by my fascination with this exotic treat

Monica and I at the "Creme Centre" restaurant in Colaba

Specialty dish: Chole Bature--seasoned lentils with monster-sized puri! Incredibly delicious
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MY FAVORITE PHOTOS OF MUMBAI BY DAY:

Classically Indian, the sacred banyan has "prop roots" hanging down like long ropes....such a marvelous tree!

South Mumbai--Colaba and the Fort areas--feature wonderful colonial architecture, the only truly positive aspect of the Brits invading/taking over India

NOTE: I was having some technical difficulties; why some of the  following photos are missing captions. All of the colonial architecture was in the Colaba and Fort areas of South Mumbai. My friend and guide, Monica, wasn't sure of the history of many of them. Suffice it to say that they now serve mostly as government offices in various capacities. The second photo--following the Gateway photo--is of the Taj Mahal hotel. Monica thinks that the rooms probably go for $1000 nightly! Mostly for millionaires--oil tycoons and the like--I would think.



The famous "Gateway to India", through which King George & Queen Mary first entered the country, and through which British troops made their sheepish departure after India gained its independence

  

 

The following series of photos were taken in Khar West, the area of Mumbai where I was staying at my Airbnb. Presumably, this is one of the more affluent areas of the city...hard to believe, considering a lot of these pictures taken within walking distance of my abode. 

Many homeless Indians, including groups of women sleep anywhere on the sidewalks...sad but true...the woman with raised head was NOT happy I took this picture!

Homeless, mangy dogs roam the streets everywhere in great multitudes. Often, they merely sleep on the sidewalks just like the homeless people. They also, unfortunately, defecate all over the sidewalks, anywhere and everywhere. One must be vigilant where one steps. These mongrels all look terribly depressed, some with terrible sores on their bodies. All of you with well-cared for animals, let them know how fortunate they truly are!!!

Early morning encampment of homeless, sidewalk dwellers. Here, they use a fire right there on the street to keep warm, and probably cook. No prohibition exists in the city for such open fires...amazing. 

How do you even make out this guy's face!?!? Strangest goat I have ever seen....

Two of my favorite, sacred bovines.... 

Another sidewalk sleeper. No blanket, nothing between his body and the hard, dirty cement. Astonishing. Had to step around him to pass. 

Steering clear of the steer! Of course, as you can see, placid and non-threatening, this one... 

My typical breakfast. Love the abundance of fresh fruits--this papaya was the best by far I have EVER eaten!

As you can tell, I have a particular fascination with the sleepers, probably because I myself have to sleep with earplugs every night to block out the traffic sounds, barking dogs, music, etc...and sometimes I have to wear ear protectors over those. How do these people sleep through the street noise?? Not to mention, lack of any mattress or other cushioning? So yes, I find this phenomenon utterly fascinating and unfathomable. 

 Normal looking goat, but ain't he cute?!?

Delicious meal at the rare earth vegan cafe: Pan of lasagna--very spicy, Indian style--and home made oatmeal peanut butter cookie.

The "lovely" view out of my Airbnb window...ha ha! Major demolition project going on. A racket all day long...from 9 a.m. until about 6:30 p.m. However, when the jack hammering ceased, some kind of grinder commenced. Apparently not part of this site...but where, and why??? That usually kept up until about 9:30 p.m. 

To finish this mixed segment on an upbeat note: another fabulous meal, of course! This one was a masala dosa, the best bargain meal anywhere, for a  mere 110 rupees, or about a buck-fifty. Such a deal!