Life In The Ashram, Ten: Departure! And return to Pune... the Covid world!

Yours truly, in the latest COVID fashion! I must say, I remind myself of one of the spies in the "I SPY" cartoon from the old Mad Magazines! At least I think that was what it was called... Either that, or I am preparing for a stylish sort of bank robbery!!!!

Root canal, how fun! 
Yes, friends...this is the unfortunate destiny that caused me to take my departure from the heavenly sanctuary of the ashram, my home for the past 10 weeks....

And so it was that, at 4:45 a.m. yesterday, I said my many sad farewells to dear friends in the ashram, climbed into the taxi and was whisked away into the great unknown. I really was curious to know what the world outside looked like, after being so very sheltered and insulated inside of the ashram. And, management made it quite clear: once anyone departs from the ashram, they are absolutely NOT allowed back in... not at least until COVID 19 is no longer a threat. So...curtains for me and any hope of returning!

The 4 hour drive into Pune was surprisingly smooth-sailing: tranquil and uneventful. The traffic was wonderfully light, as is the case everywhere, from what I understand. I amused myself by watching the passing billboards, advertising all manner of the western dream, now the Indians': luxury apartment dwellings, MacDonald's, and--MOST surprisingly--Magic Mountain! Used to love their roller coaster rides as a teenager....wonder if the Indian version is anything like it. I wonder too if, "post-covid", the people here will return to better, more traditional values and stop trying to emulate all the worst material aspects of the western world. I would certainly hope so!

After arming myself and the taxi driver with mounds of the supposedly required paperwork, it was actually disappointing that it was largely unnecessary. I had the official government document sanctioning my travel from my Ganeshpuri "Green Zone" into the more dangerous "Red Zone" of the Pune area. It was only approved because of my newly found dentist in Pune, attesting--in writing also--to the emergency/medical necessity of addressing my tooth issue. I also had a letter from the owner of the guest house where I have landed--the Ornate Villa--guaranteeing me a secure place to stay. Well... the reality was that we were only stopped twice, and both times at toll booths where the driver had to pay road tolls, anyway! Apparently these toll booths now double as checkpoints to verify permissions to travel long distance. As such, the driver had only to show the official government doc permitting travel between zones. The other letters were not needed at all. No police, no menancing interrogations about the nature of our business. Sheesh, I was actually looking forward to this aspect of the adventure!

It was quite a big deal procurring this coveted document from the government, sanctioning my travels from Ganeshpuri to Pune. Two Indian women in the ashram tried--and failed--to get approved to go themselves. Of course, the medical emergency made a huge difference, undoubtedly...and maybe, perhaps, the fact that I am a foreigner?!

We went straight to Dr. Darshan's office, where he welcomed me most graciously, both of us greeting each other behind masks. No shake of hands, to be sure. He led me up a couple flights of stairs into his simple but clean office. He donned a plastic shield, plopped me into his dental chair, and proceeded with the nasty business of doing the root canal on my bottom, back-left molar. 

I was quite surprised--and not a little perturbed--when he answered his cell phone--twice!!!--during the procedure! He picked it up with his gloved hands, and I found myself wondering if the germs from his phone would then be transported into my gaping mouth. I would never have thought such thoughts "pre-COVID"! (I would have simply deemed it unprofessional as such...which I think it was.) But I have noticed many such contradictions amongst the Indians...go figure. 

I must say, he did do a good job. He was careful, deliberate and thorough. Even with two assistants--also behind masks and face shields--it still took him a whopping three hours to do the procedure! Then, he spent an additional hour making suggestions about rebuilding tissue and bone loss elsewhere in my mouth, owing to the very unfortunate genetic flaw of my bruxism. 

When it came time to depart and I asked to see the "damages" as it were, he presented me with a bill of a huge amount of ruppees: 8,800, to be exact! Now, that may sound like a lot of money. However, the U.S. dollar is very strong against the Indian currency at present; it is roughly 75 ruppees per dollar. What this "large" bill amounted to was actually ONLY $116.50 U.S.!!! Unreal. I would have paid about 10 times that fee in the good ol' U.S. of A. if I paid out of pocket. And since I no longer have health insurance after retiring from teaching, this will now be my only option. So, needless to say, I was wonderfully surprised! I knew it would be much cheaper in India to have any dental work done, but didn't have a clue how MUCH cheaper....and now I know! No wonder medical/dental tourism is such a major happening in India. I have now had a first hand experience of why that is!

Driving along more, largely empty, roads--empty, that is, but for a few masked people and some leisurely ambling Brahman bulls--we next made our way to my new home: the Ornate Villa in the Bosele Nagar area of Pune. This is a largely upscale part of town, with many nice apartment complexes called "societies" and expensive cars in driveways. It is also replete with foliage, so it is definitely pretty. And, except for the occasional motorcycle engine or (more frequently) barking dog, it is really quite peaceful and quiet! Thus, yet another pleasant surprise!

So here I now am, doing my own "sheltering in place" inside this simple guest house. I have walked down to the corner market for some produce and curd, and ambled a few blocks more to the ATM at the ICICI bank. Of the people I pass, some don masks, others don't bother. In general, the Indians here in Pune seem quite relaxed and unfazed by the massive upheaval that seems to be affecting people so drastically everywhere else in the world. At least, this is how it appears to me. I have heard that, in the closest neighboring city of Mumbai, conditions are much, much worse. 

Another plus: it is cooler here and considerably less humid than the rural area where the ashram is located. I believe it is mostly due to the higher elevation of Pune. In any event, I am MOST appreciative of the more temperate climes... the fan suffices in my room--no need as yet for any A.C. I love it!!!

My humble room in the "Ornate" villa guest house. My, how the Indians love their pretentious--and completely misleading--names for such basic--and somewhat shabby--establishments! The photo is actually flattering. The bed is hard as a rock--not untypical in lower-end places--the floor was dusty and dirty, the toilet leaks water at its base, the bathroom sink is cracked...have to provide my own soap, etc etc... you get the picture!

The kitchen: meals available upon request. No thanks! Hard to tell from the photo, but it is pretty filthy. I definitely don't trust their standards of hygiene in this realm! I myself will do my own cooking--after first sterilizing the items I will use!--and am having food delivered to me by the wonderful Ananda office/kitchen just up the road a tad. 

The living room/dining room combo. Notice the prone body on the floor! No, no one died of COVID here...this is one of the employees! Apparently this is his home for now. My God, how he sleeps on the hard floor is truly a wonder! He was snoring away when I took this photo... I couldn't sleep on the hard Indian mattress...this thin, bony guy can sleep on the FLOOR!??! One of those unfathomable aspects of India and Indians!

Just ate the most divine mango! Ahhh, yes, friends..."fruit of the gods", indeed! By far the best aspect of summer in India!!!

Ahhh, yes... lockdown in India. Nature is loving it, of course. The air is clean and clear. The typical, terrible air pollution...gone. I hear a great medly of birds singing outside my window. One large, black and white spotted cow plopped itself down in the middle of a main thoroughfare--now with minimal traffic cruising by--completely relaxed and seemingly oblivious to the goings on of humans around her. She would never have done this back on an "ordinary" day. I stood and watched for some time, tickled, fascinated. Unfortunately, I had left my cell phone in my room, so did not get a picture. But suffice it to say, plants and animals are loving this new world. Is it terribly callous of me to admit that I am as well?! And yet, so it is...at least at this juncture. 

What the future holds remains to be seen!

The adventure surely continues....