New Pune Digs: Koregaon Park
This is a positively fascinating part of Pune, being home to Osho International--what his ashram is now apparently called--as well as Indian royalty and other billionaires.
Of course, as with everywhere in India, and especially in the cities, there is a major dichotomy--often within a small radius--between the proverbial "haves" and have-nots".
Lane One, home to princes, Osho and others, is clearly where the "haves" reside.
Not more than a few blocks away are mounds of garbage, rats, shanties and beggars. Ahhh, India: love her or leave her!
I love her. Now, and always. Why? Well, let me count the ways:
The people. There are my lovely hosts, Ben and Prachi, with their most adorable, 9 month-old baby boy. Modern, intelligent, world-traveled, vegan, sweet and helpful as all get out. What is there NOT to love?! There is Lippi, a sizable woman in a track suit whom I just met on Facebook and who kept up with my rather ambitious stride as we cruised the neighborhood streets together.
And of course there is the amazing, lovely, all-heart community of Ananda folk, who have assisted me at every turn in order to make the transition from the ashram to their fair city. I am all in!
The food. One can never get enough of--or tire of--the incredible cuisine: The spices, the variety, the nuances of taste. The cooks make it look easy. Some things are... many dishes, not at all. Marvels are created in the kitchen here by chef/housekeeper Brampaul, and this large house is perpetually filled with the most delectable aromas. It is easy to over eat. I want to sample and try everything! Thank goodness I don't eat any meat... but even so, one could spend several lifetimes and still not taste all that Indian "veg" has to offer.
The lushness of nature. Trees with dangling vines and roots that look like something out of the Avatar movie. Mutant ravens and other birds with a repertoire of calls and chirps that would fascinate and delight every ornithologist out there, or just a plain bird lover like myself. The resplendence of bushes and their blossoms. The ever-unfolding drama of the weather, and lately, the most magnificent blue skies and puffy clouds. Gorgeous, simply gorgeous.
Affordability. Especially for a humble, retired teacher such as myself. The nice room in this very clean, airy house costs me a little over $300 monthly. That is high, because of it being an Airbnb, and because of COVID and limited availability. Lippi tells me that, once things open up again, I could easily find a nice place for 15,000 rupees in this upscale area, or about $200 monthly at the current rate of exchange. Food from local vendors is cheap, although Nature's Basket, the little local health food store of sorts, is not. Even so, it doesn't break the bank. Transportation is also easy and very inexpensive: a 15 min. ride in a rickshaw to my dentist cost me 70 rupees, or right about a buck. An Uber would have been slightly more--about $1.25. Restaurants can get pricey if they are the fancier variety, but they are not something--even when they open up again-- that I would frequent, anyhow. Cell phones? Sheesh. Even my "more expensive" pre-paid plan costs me a whopping 880 rupees for just under 3 months, or what amounts to $5.00 a month. And get this: 1.5 gigs of data per day! I mean, who would even use that much?!?! I guess if someone streamed videos all day long...but of course I do nothing of the kind.
Finally, quality of life for someone such as myself--even on my very modest budget--is very, very good. I don't need much. After paying for my basic needs, there is ample left over for travel--when that is possible again!--medical and dental, such as my recent experience. And of course I have already shared with many of you readers how incredibly affordable truly good care is here. Well okay, I will repeat it anyhow: my root canal, replacement zirconia crown (best and strongest material available), replacement filling and custom night guard all cost between 500 & 600 U.S. dollars. Good God. In the States, I would have paid that much--or just slightly less--for ONLY my custom night guard, and it would NOT have been covered by dental insurance, by the way! I truly feel like I made out like a bandit!
And now, the photos of my new abode and the surrounding neighborhood of Koregaon Park:
Of course, as with everywhere in India, and especially in the cities, there is a major dichotomy--often within a small radius--between the proverbial "haves" and have-nots".
Lane One, home to princes, Osho and others, is clearly where the "haves" reside.
Not more than a few blocks away are mounds of garbage, rats, shanties and beggars. Ahhh, India: love her or leave her!
I love her. Now, and always. Why? Well, let me count the ways:
The people. There are my lovely hosts, Ben and Prachi, with their most adorable, 9 month-old baby boy. Modern, intelligent, world-traveled, vegan, sweet and helpful as all get out. What is there NOT to love?! There is Lippi, a sizable woman in a track suit whom I just met on Facebook and who kept up with my rather ambitious stride as we cruised the neighborhood streets together.
And of course there is the amazing, lovely, all-heart community of Ananda folk, who have assisted me at every turn in order to make the transition from the ashram to their fair city. I am all in!
The food. One can never get enough of--or tire of--the incredible cuisine: The spices, the variety, the nuances of taste. The cooks make it look easy. Some things are... many dishes, not at all. Marvels are created in the kitchen here by chef/housekeeper Brampaul, and this large house is perpetually filled with the most delectable aromas. It is easy to over eat. I want to sample and try everything! Thank goodness I don't eat any meat... but even so, one could spend several lifetimes and still not taste all that Indian "veg" has to offer.
The lushness of nature. Trees with dangling vines and roots that look like something out of the Avatar movie. Mutant ravens and other birds with a repertoire of calls and chirps that would fascinate and delight every ornithologist out there, or just a plain bird lover like myself. The resplendence of bushes and their blossoms. The ever-unfolding drama of the weather, and lately, the most magnificent blue skies and puffy clouds. Gorgeous, simply gorgeous.
Affordability. Especially for a humble, retired teacher such as myself. The nice room in this very clean, airy house costs me a little over $300 monthly. That is high, because of it being an Airbnb, and because of COVID and limited availability. Lippi tells me that, once things open up again, I could easily find a nice place for 15,000 rupees in this upscale area, or about $200 monthly at the current rate of exchange. Food from local vendors is cheap, although Nature's Basket, the little local health food store of sorts, is not. Even so, it doesn't break the bank. Transportation is also easy and very inexpensive: a 15 min. ride in a rickshaw to my dentist cost me 70 rupees, or right about a buck. An Uber would have been slightly more--about $1.25. Restaurants can get pricey if they are the fancier variety, but they are not something--even when they open up again-- that I would frequent, anyhow. Cell phones? Sheesh. Even my "more expensive" pre-paid plan costs me a whopping 880 rupees for just under 3 months, or what amounts to $5.00 a month. And get this: 1.5 gigs of data per day! I mean, who would even use that much?!?! I guess if someone streamed videos all day long...but of course I do nothing of the kind.
Finally, quality of life for someone such as myself--even on my very modest budget--is very, very good. I don't need much. After paying for my basic needs, there is ample left over for travel--when that is possible again!--medical and dental, such as my recent experience. And of course I have already shared with many of you readers how incredibly affordable truly good care is here. Well okay, I will repeat it anyhow: my root canal, replacement zirconia crown (best and strongest material available), replacement filling and custom night guard all cost between 500 & 600 U.S. dollars. Good God. In the States, I would have paid that much--or just slightly less--for ONLY my custom night guard, and it would NOT have been covered by dental insurance, by the way! I truly feel like I made out like a bandit!
And now, the photos of my new abode and the surrounding neighborhood of Koregaon Park:
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| Of course this had to be my featured photo! This is Noah, the 9 month old baby of my Airbnb hosts, Ben and Prashi. I have become his "auntie Sheri"! He is as sweet as his is cute... and most amazingly, I NEVER hear him cry! |
The little lane outside our guest house, within the larger Valentina Society complex
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| A bit of a presumption, to be sure...pleasant, but not quite Nirvana! My home for now, along with 3 other guests, 3 hosts (including baby Noah!) and the housekeeper, Brampaul. |
My room: basic but nice... with a shady view out of my balcony doors
Brampaul, housekeeper/chef, teaching me how to make dahl
Thanks to Nature's Basket and the Zen Cafe take out option, I was able to supplement my delicious dahl with a wholesome salad, avocado and fresh-baked, sourdough walnut bread! Soooo yummy!
The neighborhood of KP: first, a stroll down Lane One and adjacent residential streets to goggle at the unfathomable opulence on display:
Gated and guarded, homes of royalty and billionaires
Have to say, though, these shady lanes are quite beautiful to walk along.
But then, just on the other side of the tracks, as it were... the slums in COVID containment. The testing bus is the ever-present reminder of the ominous threat that still looms large in the city and elsewhere in India
Ahhh, but better to look up... high-rises, blue skies abound... this is more "up" lifting, to be sure!
And always the wonderful shop names to amuse... is this place REALLY run by the Mafia?! When lock down lifts and it opens up again, I will get a cookie and inquire!
Now THIS is nirvana: finding love AND a latte all in one place!
Very upscale apartment complexes: there are many in Koregaon Park
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And this is another unfathomable part about India: the backside of one of the luxurious apartment complexes is an open garbage dump. This is an aspect of India I absolutely detest! I even found a monstrous dead rat (a Banicoot, so Lippi tells me) lying in the middle of the road here... horrors!!!!!
You have to look closely to see the dog lying on some of garbage... truly heartbreaking
WHY don't Indians use trash receptacles?!?!!? Why would they trash their own streets like this? There simply is no making sense of it....
Many charming little restaurants I hope to eventually try, after lock down....
QR codes to summon the police?? Huh.....
You know me--I love--yet cringe--at the sight of these sort of misspellings!
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| Infinitely stroll-able streets...makes it nice to live here, for sure! |
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| And finally, I am of course always delighted to discover another unusual and beautiful plant! This one, right outside of my guest house. |
Just loved this post, Sheri! I am so happy for you--this is the India I knew you'd find. Everything seems so right for you, I know you've made a good decision to "love, not leave" the adventure! Sending all best wishes for happiness from Albuquerque!
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